One Voice, One Heart
Just two short weeks after Eid ul Fitr, the efforts of American fuqaras (disciples) of Shaykh Ahmed at-Tijani to draw closer to Allah were immensely rewarded. At the invitation of Sherif Mohamed El Kebir Ben Ahmed Tidjani, King’s appointee as Khalife of the Tijanis of Morocco, Sheikh Ahmed Sy, leader of the Islamic Tijania Foundation of America led a delegation from various American cities.
Sheikh Ahmed is the grandson of El Hadj Malick Sy, prominent leader who has spread the Tariqa Tijanniyah in Senegal and across West Africa, following the path of Sheikh Omar Fouwti, pioneer in the introduction on the Tariqa in sub-Saharan Africa.
Although most of the members of the group were traveling to Morocco for their first time, many of them had previously lived in or visited Medina Baye Kaolack in Senegal as students of the late Sheikh Hassan Ali Cisse, grandson of Sheikh Ibrahim Niasse who is also regarded as a great scholar of the tariqa and largely responsible for its spread throughout West Africa.
Approximately six hundred fuqaras Tijanis, the largest sufi order in Africa, and one of the largest in the world, attended this year, representing an assorted following from 29 countries to include Mauritania, Senegal, Mali, Cote d’Ivoire, Ghana, Nigeria, Algeria, Tunisia, Egypt, Sudan, Indonesia, Malaysia, Saudi Arabia, the United Kingdom, USA, France, and Italy.
A sentiment that permeated the atmosphere at the conference was the incredible sense of brotherhood and sisterhood amongst participants. Particularly unforgettable was the congregational offering of wazifah, a daily requirement for those on the Tijani path, which was actually made three times daily at the Fes zawiya – after Salaatul Fajr, Asr and Magrib. During wazifah, as well as during Hadaratul Juma’a, the voices of the many worshippers chimed together as ―one voice‖ – despite their many tongues and distinct accents.
Along with the warm embraces and exchanges witnessed between attendees throughout the conference, the congregational dhikr provided a truly powerful testimony to the extraordinary role that the tariqa has played in uniting Muslims of many dif-ferent shades of color and backgrounds across the world, creating ―one heart‖.
One American faqir marveled at
the bonds that developed amidst
the group, and the opportunity
for self-evaluation and
in-creased humility fostered
during the trip.
―And moreover, He has put
affection between their hearts;
not if you had spent all that is
in the earth could you have
produced that affection, but
Allah has done it for He is
Exalted in might, Wise‖ (Holy
Qur’an, Surat’ul Anfal, 8:63).
The Tariqa Tijaniyyah is simply
a path of supererogatory worship
for those Muslims who, according
to Suratul Waqi’a (56) in the
Holy Qur’an, are ―seeking to be
of those nearest to Allah.‖
Emphasizing the establishment of
a worshipper’s individual
relationship with Allah (SWT),
its observances comprise a set
of litanies that allow followers
to fully internalize the concept
of ―One God‖ (Tawhid) that is
the foundation of Islam.
Day-by-Day Journal of Trip to Fes
Day 1, Sunday afternoon, October
4, 2009
The US delegates departed from
their respective cities bound
for John F. Kennedy Airport in
Queens, NY. They gathered there,
several meeting for a first
time; all excited about their
night-long flight on Royal Air
Maroc to Casablanca.
Royal Air Maroc Flt. 200 took
off, as scheduled, around 8:30
pm.
Day 2, Monday, October 5, 2009
The airplane carrying the US
delegates landed, after a
seven-hour journey, at around
7:30 am Casablanca time. After
going through Customs and
claiming their baggage, the
group joined Fes pilgrims from
Indonesia and Malaysia around 10
am as they boarded a bus headed
to Fes, a three-hour ride.
About 30 minutes or so into the trip, the bus stopped to allow the travelers to have breakfast at a coffee shop. Upon their arrival in Fes, the group visited a Fes bank to exchange their native currency for Moroccan dirhams (MADs).
Afterwards, the now-weary voyagers reached their place of residence for the eight-day period, Zalagh Parc Palace, a five-star accommodation on the outskirts of “Old Fes.” Free to get settled in and rest for the remainder of the day, they enjoyed both lunch and dinner meals at an elegant buffet spread of chicken, fish cakes, rice, potatoes, and various fruits, vegetables and pastries.
After Salaatul Magrib in the hotel musallah, wazifah was offered.
Day 3, Tuesday, October 6, 2009
Most of Tuesday was “free time”
for the travelers, affording the
women an opportunity to visit
the Medina souk which surrounds
the zawiya of Shaykh Ahmad
Tijani in “Old Fes.” Apparently
trying to avoid the souk’s
congestion and sense of
overwhelm, the brothers
conveniently found a discount
supermarket (the group
immediately nicknamed it Walmart”)
across the street from the hotel
where they could pick up any
travel necessities.
Everyone met up again at 3 pm at the zawiya. For most, it was their first visit to the intricately-designed structure in which the Shaykh’s tomb is housed, and emotions flowed – particularly during salaat and the wazifah. After Isha prayer, they headed back to the hotel for dinner and to prepare for a busy, first day of the conference.
Day 4, Wednesday, October 7,
2009
Several tourist-sized,
air-conditioned buses left for
Rabat, capital of Morocco, at
7:30 am Wednesday morning to
allow the pilgrims to visit the
mausoleum
of King Mohammed V
(grandfather of the current
king, Mohammed VI) and his sons,
King Hassan II and Prince Moulay
Abdellah, a mark of “exquisite
traditional Moroccan
craftsmanship.”
After departing the mausoleum, the group was taken to the zawiya and tomb of Sidi El Arbi Bensayeh, Shaykh Ahmad Tijani’s first caliphate who is often referred to as the Sultan, “seed” or “door” to the tariqa. They were greeted by one of his descendants.
Returning to the hotel in Fes for Salaatul Asr and lunch, the delegates then headed back to the zawiya for the conference’s opening remarks and Mehdi (poetry praising Prophet Muhammad – SAW – and the awliya). Salaatul Magrib was followed by wazifah and the reading of Al Qur-an. The conference’s spiritual impact upon the now-tripled crowd was visibly evidenced.
Day 5, Thursday, October 8, 2009
Many of the group rose early
each morning to catch a 4 am bus
to the zawiya for Salaatul Fajr,
wazifah, and the morning reading
of Al Qur’an. They returned to
the hotel for breakfast, and
then rushed back for the day’s
conference programming which
consisted of accounts, by the
various delegates, of the
background and activities of the
tariqa in their respective
countries.
Salaat was made at prescribed times, wazifah was offered, and each day ended after Isha, when participants returned to their hotels for dinner and to mingle with their sisters and brothers from across the Muslim world.
Because the conference was conducted in Arabic and most of the US delegates (as well as many of the other participants) are not fluent in Arabic, a round-table discussion for English-speaking participants was held in the hotel musallah. Led by journalist and researcher Mohamed Taoufiq Gazoulit, the discussion detailed the history, present and anticipated activities of the Tijani Order of Morocco, and its support from the royal family. The involvement of attendees in building the organization’s website, their candid feedback and their correspondence was solicited.
Day 6, Friday, October 9, 2009
The last and most important
conference day, Jumaah, began
with Salaatul Fajr at the zawiya
and additional presentations by
delegates. At around 12 noon,
participants gathered for Jumaah
prayer at Masjid al Qarawin in
Fes.
After an exquisite lunch at the hotel provided by King Mohammed VI, conference participants returned to the zawiya for closing presentations, Hadaratul Juma’a, Salaatul Magrib and wazifah. Following the conclusion of the conference and Isha prayer, the group of several hundred were taken to the Jnan Palace, another luxurious hotel in Fes that has been the site of previous Tijani and Sufi conferences, where they were again treated by the king – this time for a scrumptious seven-course dinner.
It was approaching midnight when the delegates arrived at their hotels; however, the prospect of slumber didn’t deter the enlightened fuqaras from congregating in the Zalagh Parc Palace lobby and restaurants, where they continued to share their personal and collective experiences of the tariqa, and their pilgrimage to the final resting place of their exalted Shaykh, as an invaluable and most prestigious gift from Allah Almighty.
Day 7, Saturday, October 10,
2009
Another “free” day for the
pilgrims was spent in the souk
by most of the sisters,
finishing up their shopping for
souvenirs and gifts. Most of the
brothers stayed in the zawiya in
order to soak in the last bits
of cherished blessings from
being close to their Shaykh.
The travel agent responsible for booking the trip actually had to book a few of the Washington, DC group on Sunday to return to the US, while the majority of the group was scheduled to leave the following day. Saturday evening following dinner was spent saying, “As-salaamu alaikum; safe trip. See you back in the U.S,” along with warm kisses and hugs to the early departees – once again testifying to the close bond that had formed in that short period.
A couple of the brothers were in the habit of spending the night in ibadah at the zawiyah, and Saturday night was no exception; in fact, one of the sisters stayed as well, enjoying the entire sisters’ side to herself.
Day 8, Sunday, October 11, 2009
A final day for last minute
shopping in the souk for the
women, a lunch invitation to the
home of one of the group’s
travel guides, and last minute
errands kept the group busy on
Sunday, before Salaatul Magrib,
wazifah, and Isha at the zawiya.
Before returning to the hotel,
everyone tearfully made their
final du’as and said their
goodbyes to Shaykh Ahmad Tijani,
the brothers who faithfully
maintained the zawiya and
attended to the pilgrims, and
any remaining visitors to the
holy city.
Tomorrow’s trip to Casablanca was going to start really early, so most of the group decided to turn in early, in order to pack and prepare for the bus ride back to the airport.
Day 9, October 12, 2009
Although the bus taking them
back to Casablanca was not due
to leave until 4 a.m., not
wanting to be detained by any
last minute snags at the
airport, everyone agreed to meet
in the hotel lobby with their
luggage by 3:15 a.m. Once the
bus arrived, the luggage (now
greater in volume due to the
trips to the souk) was loaded
on, everyone boarded, and the
three-hour trip ensued.
Alhamdulillah, there were no last minute hurdles. At 10:45 am promptly, the aircraft carrying the remaining US delegates to the Fes bicentenary commemoration of Shaykh Ahmad at-Tijani’s return to Allah began its glide down the runway of Mohammed V. Airport at Casablanca. It arrived back at JFK Airport in New York on schedule at 4:45 pm, allowing just enough time for the group to grab their bags, clear customs, and rush off to their connecting flights back to their hometowns. Everyone was safely back in the U.S. of America.
Lessons Learned
The pilgrimage to Fes was a
wonderful, out-of-this world
experience for all of the group
– despite the bit of effort it
took to keep the group together
and on time each day and the
little mishaps (bound to occur
during a trip of this nature).
Like the typical hajji, most of
us could recount a few occasions
of weariness and frustration if
we look back hard enough, but
all in all, most of us managed
to keep a smile on our faces and
meet our trials with a sense of
humor.
Like for example, the time I got separated from the sisters, one of whom was carrying my bag and my shoes, following Jumaah and ended up running down the street barefooted chasing the bus I was told they had boarded. The bus pulled over to let “the American” on and I boarded – only to find out, once the bus was again in motion, that it was the wrong bus (how many times did our language barrier translate into “bad” directions during the trip?). I was about to panic at the thought of the sisters looking all over for me, but when the women on the bus, pointing at my feet and assuming someone had made off with my shoes, instinctively grabbed my hands to welcome me, I couldn’t help but laugh at the whole ordeal. That was before I arrived back at the hotel to find none of the American sisters there, and had to face their chastisement later when I learned they had involved masjid police in searching for me.
Or the time the sisters were looking everywhere for Sister Naima from Detroit who had decided, while waiting for them to return from a shopping trip, to go to the tour guide’s home for a short nap. They found her cozily reclining while giving the entire family English lessons.
There were a great deal of other benefits from the trip besides the increased patience and good cheer with which we all came home. Although quite a few of us could not understand the conference word for word, there were many opportunities in and outside of the sessions to reap jewels of knowledge.
Like Friday night following the close of the conference, when some of us gathered for an informal lecture with Al Hajj Mansour Sy, conference presenter and grandson of Shaykh Al Hajj Malick Sy, in the hotel lobby. Referring to Tariqa Tijaniyyah as “a confederate of Islamic intellectuals,” he emphasized that it is a spiritually-endowed path of worship that is grounded in the doctrines of Al Qur’an and the Sunnah of Sayyidina Muhammad (SAW). He added that the spiritual ascendancy of people of knowledge, devotion and sincerity is guaranteed through the tariqa if fuqaras simply perform their wird – a fundamental daily exercise performed after Salaatul Fajr and Asr that is fulfilled in a matter of minutes. The tariqa is not over-complicated nor does it place burdensome demands on its fuqaras but, Insha’Allah, it promises extraordinary results.
The following are personal testimonies of the conference experience of some of the US delegates:
“I am forever changed, again!
The anticipation of traveling to Fez for the Tariqa Tijaniyya Conference was intoxicating. The US delegation included many sisters I have known and respected for a very long time - sisters who figured prominently in my Islamic Sufi consciousness. I was overcome with joy; I could not stop smiling!
Because the last two years had been difficult emotionally and spiritually, I had prayed to Allah for respite. And although Ramadan had been especially satisfying, I couldn't help but feel and hope that there was something more on the horizon.
Allah heard my plea. This journey of a thousand lifetimes was sublime. We prayed, made wazifah and zikrul jummah, explored, ate (too much), talked, laughed, cried (a lot), shopped, established new friendships, renewed old relationships, and in my case, came face-to-face with a future that had been previously revealed to me in a dream. Alhamdulillah, I am grateful to Allah (SWT) and all those who made it possible for 'Sheikh Ahmad At-Tijani's (RA) daughters to come home.' It was a pleasure beyond description.”
And:
“A moment of intense
enlightenment occurred for me
following the wazifah on the
first conference day. It was the
largest and most diverse
assembly of Tijani I had been
part of in my almost 30 years in
the tariqa. Illuminated by the
unison and cadence of the group,
my heart seemed incapable of
containing all of the baraka I
felt and I began to cry, almost
uncontrollably. However, by the
end of Jawharatul Kamal, I had
managed to regain composure, and
an incredible sense of calmness
and serenity came over me as I
envisioned all of us there
returning to our respective
communities – like marching ants
carrying nourishment to their
anthills – armed with the gift
of the tariqa and commissioned
with its propagation to the
world at-large.”
The Islamic Tijaniya Foundation is deeply grateful to Sherif Mohamed el Kebir Tijani, Khalife of the Tijanis of Mo-rocco, for his guidance and support. Inviting us to this commemoration has been an excellent opportunity to renew our faith, congregate with Tijanis from around the globe and pray together for a better world. For more information, please visit www.tidjania.ma
ZIYARA BY RABIYA
In the name of
Allah, Most Gracious, Most
Merciful
ZIYARA
Even when it
is a journey you have dreamed of
most of your adult life and even
though your imagination has
conjured up exotic mysteries to
solve while travelling, nothing
quite prepares you for the real
beauty and timeless setting of
Morocco.
To enter
Fez, one of the most ancient
cities in the world, is to gain
instant access to another era.
One can feel the spirit of
antiquity there; a spirit
certainly witness to countless
secrets and great spectacles
over the centuries. The
original fortress wall still
stands around portions of the
city and the beautiful old green
trees that grew up beside it
have remained stalwart
companions, holding their posts
as silent sentries. While
looking out over the modern,
they each protect what is most
historic, including the long
cascading hills of the city’s
oldest graveyard, still in
service after centuries of use.
This for
me was a journey filled with
paradoxes: to visit Morocco in
this present day and yet be so
immersed in the ancient history
of its great teachers, rituals
of worship and study… to travel
such a great distance only to
have my heart feel as though it
had just arrived home! So
comfortable among a people it
somehow recognized, with a
spirit akin to its own… to
travel for the sake of gaining
Islamic knowledge and still feel
as though I’d stolen off on some
exquisite personal holiday. Then
there was the wonderful surprise
and irony of the opportunity to
travel coming as a gift from a
total stranger, having
absolutely no input in the
arrangements and yet being able
to make the trip with some of my
very oldest and dearest
friends! Who could ask for
more?
There were
so many things I loved about
Fez. It is truly a city of
unique contrasts. We drove
lonely country roads that led to
surprisingly beautiful
fountains, centered in circles
of busy urban traffic. Wherever
there was an abundance of palm
trees and flowers, lush greens
and bright colors stood out
against office buildings, cafes,
even gas stations. Built on
hillsides that flowed one into
the other, dense neighborhoods
of stone dwellings baked white
in the sun and bordered in ochre
dust, created panoramic views so
expansive they appeared to claim
whole mountains. Amazingly, as
tightly as the buildings were
situated, each one had its own
satellite dish on the roof,
creating a vast field of little
circles. They were a garden of
alien grey flowers, round faces
devoid of color or pretty
petals, resting on leaf-less
metal stems sprouting out of the
concrete. They all looked up to
the sky in the same fixed
direction, either patiently
waiting
for or receiving the
invisible rays which sustained
them.
In Rabat, there were modern streets that passed by immaculately dressed palace guards, mounted on equally well-groomed and well-trained horses. Each holding so still, they might at first be mistaken for colorful statues. In close proximity however, both man and animal scrutinized me far more intently than I inspected them!
What I saw of the palace grounds there was an amazing juxtaposition of new and ancient architecture cleverly incorporated into a beautiful, sprawling courtyard. It was filled with vivid flags and throngs of people moving leisurely, while diverse languages and quiet laughter floated lightly on the air. Yet in the most modern building there, one found stark contrast in the carefully structured, closely guarded interior of a deceased king’s mausoleum, with its regal décor, and the very solemn hush that lay over it.
I found
the present day King’s subjects
to be a beautiful people, a
people of contrasts, like their
country. In my own humble
interaction, I saw a culture of
outgoing personalities who are
still quietly observant of the
many who visit there. I saw a
modest people who still take
pride in who they are, able to
absorb the new while holding
onto the old. They were quick
to return a smile, despite some
stares, and no one ever failed
to return the traditional
greeting. Help was always
offered if you seemed to be in
need, and it appeared that real
friendship was possible if you
were able to communicate the
desire of such.
The
weather was picture perfect each
day, yet I have to say I looked
forward to sitting outside on
Moroccan nights. Though a bit
cooler, the evenings were still
warm with little breezes that
mimicked gentle fans and caused
the palms and other foliage to
make their soft rustling sounds,
as they whispered secrets among
themselves that you were not
supposed to overhear. I loved
to look out on the hillsides
that sank into deep shadows and
gaze at the long jagged outlines
of distant black mountains
framed against the horizon.
Ethereal clouds of the deepest
purple hues, gossamer blues, and
lovely shades of grey always
drifted across the night skies,
playing lazy games of hide and
seek with the moon.
All the
many wonderful sights,
delectable foods, and fabulous
hospitality were accompanied by
a cornucopia of sounds. Of
course, there were all the
different languages. You always
seem to understand the lilt and
timbre of how someone speaks to
you, even when you don’t
understand the words. There were
the sounds of the children’s
games, the work animals, the
vendors hawking their wares,
even those purposely snatching
your attention with loud bells
and cymbals, and a seemingly
unlimited array of bikes and
other vehicles, with horns to be
honked for every occasion! One
of my favorites was the sound of
the wooden boards on the huge,
old-fashioned hand looms as they
clapped woven threads into
place. The assortment of colors
and weights of silks and
traditional wools and their
designs were some of the most
beautiful I have ever seen. But
the sound that topped them all
was the wonder of multiple
Adthans throughout the day and
evening. They always began in
stereo and had staggered endings
which faded slowly in their own
styles, sweet echoes of heavenly
invitations! These were the
sounds that added to the
happiness of my days.
Yet, more
than anything else I experienced
in Morocco, I loved to set my
feet upon the cobblestone paths
laid so long ago. A winding
maze that lead up to that
special place of daily gathering
for prayers and dhikr: the
Tijani Zawiya. I was so touched
to arrive at the great wooden
doors I had heard so much about,
doors always thrown open in
welcome. I fell in love with
everything my eyes fell upon:
the courtyard and water
stations, the beautiful colors
of its geometric tiles and
painted doors, mosaics and
stained glass lanterns,
beautiful old rugs, graceful
arches and chandeliers. And I
especially loved the calligraphy
carved into the stone pillars
throughout the mosque. This was
a place of worship not only
beautiful in décor, as so many
are, but also beautiful at the
core of its being! It was
unique in its aura of peace and
love generated by the constant
remembrance of Allah Most Great,
in addition to traditional
prayers, done there each day.
Here also
was the final resting place of
Sheikh Ahmed Tijani, the founder
of the Tijani Tariqa. (May
Allah Most Gracious be pleased
with his efforts and grant him
peace. Ameen) His tomb was
simple but stately. The thing
you noticed most was the bright
light around it. Though an
exquisite glass chandelier hung
above it, one could wonder
whether that chandelier was the
only source of light! And you
really knew that you were a
guest there. It was as though
each time you entered, he,
himself, made you feel welcome.
How
blessed I felt to walk and sit
in the same places where so many
beloved ones had passed. What a
loving connection I felt when I
saw the sweet faces of my Muslim
sisters gathered around, their
own mouths uttering the same
words that I myself repeat every
day, even though most of us live
half a world away from one
another. I was reminded of the
Hajj and how the common
denominator of millions of
pilgrims is our salat and the
rituals of worship. I was
reminded of how these things can
erase the barriers we imagine
exist between us. Sitting among
the women that day was another
deeply emotional confirmation of
the strong spiritual bonds that
lovingly link us through the
remembrance of Allah, to Whom
all Praise is due.
My heart filled
to overflowing when I closed my
eyes and concentrated on the
sound of thousands of voices
belonging to men and women who
had travelled from every corner
of the world to celebrate Islam
and the extensive Tijani
history! Voices exuberant,
passionate yet cohesive…out of
many, one!
It was
beyond amazing to feel my heart
expand in its most secret places
with the sound of such dhikr,
and in such close proximity to
the one blessed to blaze the
path! I cannot adequately
express my joy in the reality of
the blessing to simply be, at
that moment, among those who
submit themselves in loving
remembrance of their Creator and
His Beloved Slave. I can only
say how very deeply grateful I
am to be a Muslim and that I was
able to participate in raising a
truly global voice in universal
gratitude, for the Light that
has been bestowed upon us in so
many forms throughout the ages.
All Praise
belongs to Allah Alone, Great
and Glorious is He, The
All-Merciful, Most Gracious, and
Oft-Forgiving Sovereign Lord!
May He continue to shower His
Most Tender Blessings and bestow
every Honor upon our beloved
Prophet, his family and
companions, his descendants, and
all those who follow him.
Ameen!
Hajja Rabiyah
Al-Adawiyya
In the name of Allah Most
Gracious Most Merciful
GRATITUDE
O Thou Who Alone
Can Encompass the infinite!
Whose Exalted Names
Fall upon the heart
Like the purest of morning dew.
Thou Who Sustains the day
And Illumines the night
With bright torches
Of Forgiveness and Compassion:
Revealing a course
Through timeless oceans
For which no shores exist.
We do thank Thee
For Blessings of Nearness to Thee!
That for which
We ardently beg
And yet do not deserve…
We do thank Thee
For the precious moments
Spent with Thy Beloved!
Wrapped in the softest velvet
Of his presence
We receive gifts
Always exceeding our
Greatest hopes!
We humbly thank Thee
From the depths
Of our beings…
For what is the purpose
Of our gratitude
Except to realize
The Splendor of Your Love?
Hajja Rabiyah Al-Adawiyyah
10-29-09
In the name of Allah Most Gracious Most Merciful
ZIYARA
My footsteps fall upon ancient stones
As I ascend the winding paths
That lead to a space
Behind great wooden doors
Swung open to welcome
The Sweet Remembrance
Begun in centuries past…
Though the voice
That lead the way
Lays now silent and entombed
There still remains
Such sweet serenity
It adds to the beauty of repose…
And so, we continue
We millions more!
To repeat with love
All of the prayers
That cleanse and open
All of our hearts!
We come from near and from afar
Paying homage and giving Praise.
Seeing ourselves
In the faces of strangers
And out of the many
Comes one voice
Rising clear and strong!
Finding unity in the Love
Born from the Truth
Of Itself…
That voice continues
An eternal echo
Of Tauhid!
For as ever, we are each
Only a mirror
Of THE ONE.
Hajja Rabiyah Al-Adawiyyah